Frequently Asked Questions
According to Dr. Castilla, a dark spot is an area of excess pigment in the skin. These can appear in a variety of forms, including age spots, sun spots, and melasma, which can be caused by hormonal changes (such as pregnancy or menopause). And although they often fade over time, skin care products like dark-spot correctors can speed up the process and even out your skin tone. Ingredients like prescription hydroquinone, retinol and other proven brighteners accelerate skin regeneration and reduce pigmentation. Rachel Nazarian, MDA board-certified dermatologist in NYC.
What ingredients should you look for in a dark-spot corrector?
Dark-spot correctors help break up existing hyperpigmentation and may prevent dark spots from forming by blocking melanin transfer into skin cells, says Dendy Engelman, MDA board-certified dermatologist in NYC. But it all depends on the ingredients that help you get there.
Dermatologists say to look for alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) such as lactic acid, glycolic acid, and malic acid; Retinol; vitamin C; And niacinamide. Dr. Engelman also recommends kojic acid, which is derived from fermented rice, for new dark spots and acne scars. Here’s a description of what they do
AHA, BHA, PHA: “AHAs like glycolic acid or lactic acid help speed up cell turnover and reduce surface-level pigmentation, while BHAs like salicylic acid are especially helpful for acne-related dark spots,” she says. Ellen Marmur, MDA board-certified dermatologist and founder MMSkincare. Both should be used in limited quantities, as they can irritate sensitive skin. PHAs, or poly-hydroxy-acids, also exfoliate and remove dead skin, but with a smaller molecule. This makes penetration softer and less irritating, so they are recommended if you have sensitive skin.
Retinol: “Retinol, also known as vitamin A, can help reduce hyperpigmentation marks by stimulating cell turnover, so regular use can help fade dark spots over time and has many benefits for the appearance, health, and function of the skin overall,” says Dr. Engelman. Since retinol can be irritating and drying, the key is to build up your tolerance. Start by applying it once a week, then twice a week, and eventually every other day until your skin tolerates it for everyday use.
vitamin C: “Vitamin C works to reduce melanin production, but also acts as an antioxidant to neutralize free radicals that trigger production after sun exposure or trauma,” says. Brooke Jaffee, MDA board-certified dermatologist in NYC. This is why you may find vitamin C as an ingredient in some dark-spot correctors.
according to Asha Mitchell, MDA board-certified dermatologist and founder Michelle DermatologyTranexamic acid, cysteamine, azelaic acid, soy, and arbutin are also effective options for lightening dark spots. “These ingredients will inhibit melanin production and accelerate skin cell turnover, which helps reduce pigmentation over time,” she says. Hydroquinone may also be effective for lightening dark spots, but dermatologists recommend proceeding with caution. “This ingredient is not safe for people with darker skin, and in some cases it may actually increase hyperpigmentation in individuals with darker skin,” says Dr. Engelman.
How to incorporate dark-spot corrector into your daily routine
The dermatologists we spoke to recommend using a dark-spot corrector with vitamin C, acids (AHAs, azelaic acid, ferulic acid), and alpha arbutin in the morning; Use retinol in the evening, as it can make skin extra sensitive to the sun. And remember: You should avoid using products like retinol and vitamin C serums together; Dr. Castilla says, doing so is likely to cause irritation. According to Dr. Mitchell, consistency is key to protecting the skin from further hyperpigmentation and sunscreen is your most important product.
What fades dark spots fastest? How much time can this take?
According to Dr. Marmer, most dark spots take 8 to 12 weeks to heal with consistent treatment. “Deep or chronic hyperpigmentation can take several months and progression can be significantly slowed by sun exposure, which is why using a daily SPF is essential,” she says.
If you’re looking for the fastest results, a combination approach is usually best. “Dermatologists often combine prescription-strength pigment inhibitors like hydroquinone, retinoids, tranexamic acid or cysteamine with diligent sunscreen use and, when appropriate, in-office treatments like chemical peels or lasers,” says Dr. Rambhiya. Regardless of the treatment approach, dermatologists say daily broad-spectrum sunscreen use is indispensable. “Without consistent sun protection, dark spots can persist, worsen, or resurface, making results much more difficult to achieve and maintain,” says Dr. Rambhiya.
Are dark spots different from age spots?
“There are many types of dark spots on the skin,” says Dr. Jeffee. She explains that sun spots, or lentigines, are often called age spots, while other dark spots can be caused by post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, which can be classified as freckles, melasma, and seborrheic keratoses. All can be classified as dark spots, although some are specifically age related.
How to treat dark spots on face and body
There are several different ways to remove dark spots on the face: laser treatments, microdermabrasion, chemical peels, and dark-spot correctors. The latter are the most accessible from both a convenience and cost standpoint, as you can use them daily without a prescription or visiting a doctor’s office.
If you want to treat dark spots on the body, look for retinol-based body lotions and creams. Check the ingredient list for vitamin C, which provides radiance, and niacinamide, which provides anti-inflammatory and anti-aging benefits. “And be sure to exfoliate regularly to remove dead skin cells,” says Dr. Mitchell. As always, sunscreen is important for both face and body to prevent further darkening.
What should you avoid mixing with dark-spot correctors?
“My biggest concern when using a dark-spot corrector is depositing too many irritants,” says Ksenia Kobets, MDDirector of Cosmetic Dermatology Montefiore Einstein Advanced Care. She says that since dark-spot correctors usually contain an exfoliating acid or vitamin A (retinol) derivative, adding a separate retinoid, acid toner, scrub or peel to your routine may be too much. “More redness and peeling doesn’t necessarily mean you’re getting better results, especially with melasma or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, where inflammation can produce more pigment,” she says. Try combining dark-spot correctors with hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid as well as rich moisturizers to soothe and calm skin.
How we rated dark-spot correctors
We started by evaluating ingredients endorsed by dermatologists. Then glamour Editors and contributors with a variety of skin types—including mature, acne-prone, dry, and sensitive—tested the dark-spot corrector for weeks to months. Some editors have been using these products for years.
We assessed texture, smell, absorption, and how the skin felt after application. We took a close look at sun spots, discoloration, acne scars, and hyperpigmentation after three weeks of use, then saw if the results continued with continued use. The ones that made this list get our editors’ approval and we continue to use them in our daily skin care routines.
- Carmen Castilla, MDBoard-certified NYC-based dermatologist
- Rachel Nazarian, MDBoard-certified dermatologist Schweiger Dermatology Group
- Dendy Engelman, MDBoard-certified NYC-based dermatologist
- Asha Mitchell, MDBoard-certified dermatologist and founder of Mitchell Dermatology
- Brooke Jaffee MDArizona-based board-certified dermatologist
- Ellen Marmur, MDBoard-Certified Dermatologist and Founder MMSkincare
- Pooja Rambhiya, MDNew Jersey-based board-certified dermatologist
- Christina Collins, MDBoard-Certified Dermatologists at Austin Skin in Austin
- Ksenia Kobets, MDMontefiore Director of Cosmetic Dermatology at Einstein Advanced Care